Baking Classics
The Technique
Buttermilk Biscuits
Authentic buttermilk biscuits are the quintessential baked bread variety the south has to offer. A small batch of hot biscuits straight from the oven slathered with softened butter, local honey & homemade jam – the simplicity of each make a family breakfast something quite special. One of the key factors to making an authentic southern biscuit is by using an heirloom cast iron skillet to prepare them in & it should be noted that not all southern-style biscuits are created equal. Subtle changes in the fat used to prepare them, the mixing method & how close together they are when deposited into a hot oven provides a cornucopia of biscuit varieties to try & love. This particular approach yields a light & fluffy buttermilk biscuit that is delightfully tender due to the soft wheat flour used, the method in which the fat is dispersed throughout the dough & the wee bit of kneading when preparing them. It features a crisp, golden bottom as the dough bakes atop a thin layer of softened butter that is used to coat the cast iron skillet. Follow my pointers to make your best batch of southern-style buttermilk biscuits.
Buttermilk Biscuits
makes 8 biscuits
2 1/4 cups soft wheat all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
3/4 tsp table salt
1/2 cup cold butter, cut into small cubes
1 cup whole buttermilk
Melted butter
Softened butter, jam & honey
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together the flour, the baking powder & the salt in a large mixing bowl. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or your fingers until the mixture resembles peas. Add the buttermilk. Fold into the mixture with a rubber spatula just until the dough comes together. Do not over mix. You’re not looking for perfection & a bit crumbly is just fine. Turn the dough out onto a heavily floured surface. Knead 2 or 3 times & pat to a thickness of 1-inch. Cut the dough with a 2 3/8-inch drinking glass or cutter. Do not expect the biscuit tops to be smooth. Lumpy & a little wonky is a sign of good biscuit making. Gently reform the dough scraps & repeat. Place the biscuits into a buttered 10-inch cast iron skillet. Bake on the middle rack for 27 to 30 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from the oven & brush with melted butter. Serve with additional butter, jam & honey.
FROM THE KITCHEN OF BUTTERMILK LIPSTICK
{testing notes}
How To Make Southern-Style Buttermilk Biscuits
Buttermilk biscuits are a coveted southern gem when prepared with love & care. The biscuits fussed over most in each community generally have a distinctive feature that makes them interesting. The first point to note is that you must begin with quality ingredients in order to make an authentic buttermilk biscuit. Soft wheat flour, a mainstay in kitchens across the south, offers a lower protein content compared to general all-purpose flours which results in a more tender biscuit if the dough is handled properly. It is mainly the protein content of the flour & how little the dough is worked that will determine a pleasing biscuit texture. By avoiding the development of gluten, a protein in flour that activates when liquid & dough handling comes into play, you can almost bet your efforts will be rewarded at the breakfast table.
The Technique
When baking a batch of quality buttermilk biscuits, aside from ingredients, it comes down to technique as the ratio doesn’t stray too much recipe to recipe. Have your cast iron skillet prepped & ready to fill & heed my instruction. Here’s what you should know.
No. 1
The Ingredients
The Flour, The Leavening & The Salt
A few items from the cupboard will have you well on your way to making hot from the oven biscuits. Soft wheat all-puropse flour, baking powder & regular table salt is all that is need in order to get started. You’ll have more control over the flavor if you blend your own ingredients as opposed to using self-rising options which can be too salty for this cooking application. Baking powder will provide the lift needed for a beautiful rise to the biscuits. It activates when exposed to liquid & to heat. It’s almost as if you get a little jumpstart on the rise before they go into the oven. Some recipes over do it on the leavening & too much can leave a chemical taste & fizziness on the tongue. Not so with this recipe.
The Butter & The Buttermilk
Cold butter directly from the icebox is imperative in order to make stellar biscuits. When cut into the flour & dispersed properly, it provides steam once melted in the hot oven & delivers a pleasing texture that southerners expect in a quality biscuit. Whole buttermilk offers good taste with twang & rich flavor. Never substitute lightened items when preparing biscuits.
No. 2
The Procedure
The Cast Iron Skillet
Start with a well-seasoned skillet for the best flavor. Swipe a little softened in the skillet so the biscuits release easily. It will also produce an ultra buttery, crisp bottom.
The Blending
Whisk together the dry ingredients in a large bowl & be certain the leavening is dispersed evenly throughout the mixture. Have the buttermilk measured ahead of time & the butter already cut into small pieces.
2a
Once the leavening & the salt has been dispersed throughout the flour, cut the cold butter into the mixture using a pastry blender. The fat along with the heat will provide the soft & comforting texture for which a good buttermilk biscuit is known.
2b
The size of the fat pieces along with the leavening determine biscuit rise as well as how light & soft the interior of the biscuit will be. When the fat melts as it bakes it creates steam pockets. It’s one of the factors in determining biscuit texture. Oven temperature, how the dough is handled, the leavening & pan placement all play a role as well.
2c
Once the butter has been coated with the flour mixture & distributed throughout, put aside the pastry blender & finish the process by hand. Press the mixture through your fingers until the bits of flour & butter resemble the size of peas. The dough will be ready for the next step when you can leave an imprint of your fingers when a small portion is pressed inside of your hand.
2d
Pour the buttermilk over the prepared mixture.
2e
Use a rubber spatula to blend the ingredients together by swiping it around the edges of the bowl & folding it over itself several times. The dough should be loose & sticky.
No. 3
The Kneading
Once the dough has been blended & turned out onto a well floured surface. Dust the top of it generously with more flour to prevent sticking during the kneading process. Now simply push the dough over itself in a few quick half folds until the dough surface is smooth.
No. 4
The Cutting
A rolling pin isn’t necessary. Use your hands to press the dough into an even layer measuring approximately 1-inch. Cut the biscuits with a well floured cutter or drinking glass being certain not to twist the tool as it will pinch the edges & affect how high the biscuits rise while baking.
4a
If you work with the dough as little as possible, you can expect a tender crumb. When it gets down to portioning the last bit of dough, cut the second to last biscuit then roll up the scraps in a spiral shape. You can either add it straight to the cast iron skillet or turn it on its side & press it flat to cut a final one.
No. 5
The Baking
You want to bake biscuits in a hot oven but not at the expense of burned bottoms. I have found 400 degrees to be a good temperature yielding lightly golden tops & rich bottoms with a fluffy texture on the interior of the biscuits. By slightly lowering the traditional oven temperature that can be as high as 500 degrees according to some traditional recipes, you can ensure the bottom of the biscuit will not burn keeping bitterness at bay. Bake the biscuit dough right away as directed according to the recipe instructions. The tops of the biscuits can be swiped with an egg wash or heavy cream but truly, an authentic buttermilk biscuit is simply brushed with melted butter straight out of the oven.
The Tune
“My Man” Billie Holiday
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