Cooking Classics
From The Garden
Buttermilk Cole Slaw
Buttermilk Cole Slaw is a recipe my father made often in the summertime when I was growing up. While my mother was in charge of meals during the week, my father would step in for weekend dinner preparations. The Saturday night special was always steak with his special recipe for mushrooms & onions, a baked potato & an iceberg based green salad but Sunday was always a wild card. Sometimes he’d make omelets or homemade waffles. If grilled pork chops were on the menu, you could almost bet cole slaw making was in order. I would watch as he would remove the outer leaves from the cabbage, then core & slice it into chunks. He would put them into the blender with a carrot & fill it with a little water to pulse the mixture more easily. Once finely chopped, he would place the mixture in a colander & allow it to drain then proceed to fold it into a mayonnaise based dressing consisting of several pastry staples. If you like a simple slaw this recipe is for you. It pairs well with bold, smoky barbecue & foods that pack a punch by providing good balance to the plate. Follow my tips for pulling off this effortless summer classic.
Buttermilk Cole Slaw
makes 16 servings
Expect a good bit of water to release once tossed with the dressing. Season the cabbage generously with salt to allow all of the flavors to shine through.
4 lbs cabbage, rinsed, cored & cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
3 carrots, scraped & sliced
3 scallions, sliced
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup whole buttermilk
3 Tbsp honey
3 Tbsp Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp lemon juice
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Pulse the cabbage & carrots in 5 to 6 batches in a heavy duty food processor several seconds or until coarsely ground. Place each batch in a large bowl. Add the scallions. Whisk together the mayonnaise, the buttermilk, the honey, the Dijon, the lemon juice, the salt & the pepper in a separate large bowl. Fold the cabbage mixture into the dressing. Serve right away or make up to a day ahead of time & chill in the refrigerator. Stir well before serving with a slotted spoon.
FROM THE KITCHEN OF BUTTERMILK LIPSTICK
{testing notes}
How To Trim Scallions
Although scallions are available in your local market year round, they are typically planted when the ground is cool. As the soil begins to warm, the scallions begin to take shape in the garden & are ready for a spring harvest. If a milder flavor is desired in recipe applications, choose younger, smaller bulb groupings.
The Technique
Expect the white portion to have a sharper flavor so many times recipes may call to omit it for a more balanced flavor as is the case of Scallion Vinaigrette. Trim scallions before using them in recipe applications by cutting the tips & the ends away, then thinly cut them. When I worked in the restaurants, several chefs used razor blades to slice them with precision into a collection of shaved green onions. Although certainly not necessary in this case, I find that a freshly sharpened paring knife yields a cleaner, neater result as opposed to a chef knife.
The Tune
“Easy Living” Billie Holiday
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